Cues are signals that tell our dogs
what we want them to do
In a training context, cues are signals we give our dogs requesting specific behaviours. For example, we might cue our dog to “sit” by saying the word “Sit” or by using a particular hand gesture. Verbal cues and physical cues are generally used the most in training but cues can also be sounds, scents, or touch.
But there is also another type of cue that happens all the time - environmental or contextual cues. In fact, your dog is being cued by the environment all the time!
CUES IN A TRAINING CONTEXT
Cues are different than commands. A command implies an element of force but a cue gives the dog an opportunity to earn a reinforcement. A reinforcement is something the dog likes and will work to obtain, for example, a treat, a toy, the opportunity to chase a squirrel, etc. Sometimes reinforcements are called rewards. The difference is that a reinforcement, by definition, will strengthen a behaviour and cause it to be repeated.
A cue is like a green light to do a behaviour. A cue does not cause the behaviour to happen. Behaviour is caused by consequences, that is, the reinforcement the dog receives for doing the behaviour. The cue tells the dog what behaviour to do to receive the reinforcement. For example:
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A CUE? HERE ARE SOME TIPS:
WHEN TO ADD THE CUE
In modern dog training, we don’t add the cue until the dog is already doing the behaviour. Watch the cue being added here as Buddy and I work on the backing up behaviour.
In the first part of the video I have not yet added the verbal cue. We worked on this for about 5 minutes a day for a couple of weeks to get to the point where Buddy was reliably backing up to the target. When the behaviour was reliable - Buddy was hitting the pillow target with his back feet all or most of the time - I added a verbal cue which I say just before he backs up. Because he is already backing up, I can name it. It's as if I was saying to Buddy: Hey, Buddy, you know when you move backwards? We call that "Get Back!".
WHEN TO SAY THE CUE
It is important to give the cue when your dog is ready to receive it. You don't want to cue your dog when she is doing something else, for example, looking away, eating, or otherwise distracted or engaged. If you cue your dog when she isn't ready, you are not setting her up for success. Instead, you are making it likely that she does not respond to your cue. The more she doesn't respond, the more you are weakening your cue and your training overall. Wait until your dog is ready to receive your cue and you will get better, faster, and happier responses!
ENVIRONMENTAL OR CONTEXTUAL CUES
There is another kind of cue that doesn't happen only in a training context. These cues happen all the time, in everyday life: environmental or contextual cues. In fact, dogs respond to these kinds of cues all the time. When I get out my hiking boots, all my dogs perk up and start getting excited and spinning around because that is a cue we are going for a hike. If my dogs are in the kitchen and they see me reach up high to the top cupboard where I keep their food, you guessed it, they read that as a cue I'm about to feed them!
We can make environmental or contextual cues work for us too and train lots of behaviours using them. For example, meeting a person becomes a cue to sit politely. Picking up the leash becomes a cue to wait calmly for it to be clipped on. Holding their dinner bowl is a cue to sit and wait until released to eat. And being out on a walk becomes a cue to walk next to you and check in with you regularly.
Real life rewards are built right into these situations. The dog sits politely to meet a new person and the reward is that the dog gets to greet the person. The dog waits calmly for the leash to be clipped on, and the reward is that the dog gets to go for a walk. The dog waits patiently for his dinner, and the reward is the dog gets to eat. The dog walks next or close to you, and checks in with you, and the reward is that the dog gets to have fun on a walk with you.
It's important to make environmental cues work for our and our dogs' benefit. The sound of a doorbell can be a cue for your dog to start barking and running frantically to the door, or you can teach him that the sound of a doorbell is a cue to do something else, such as go to his bed and receive a treat!
FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Think about the cues you use for your dog. Measure them against the tips presented here. Could you improve some of the cues you use to make yourself clearer to your dog?
But there is also another type of cue that happens all the time - environmental or contextual cues. In fact, your dog is being cued by the environment all the time!
CUES IN A TRAINING CONTEXT
Cues are different than commands. A command implies an element of force but a cue gives the dog an opportunity to earn a reinforcement. A reinforcement is something the dog likes and will work to obtain, for example, a treat, a toy, the opportunity to chase a squirrel, etc. Sometimes reinforcements are called rewards. The difference is that a reinforcement, by definition, will strengthen a behaviour and cause it to be repeated.
A cue is like a green light to do a behaviour. A cue does not cause the behaviour to happen. Behaviour is caused by consequences, that is, the reinforcement the dog receives for doing the behaviour. The cue tells the dog what behaviour to do to receive the reinforcement. For example:
- You ask the dog to sit – the cue
- The dog sits – the behaviour
- The dog receives a treat – the consequence (a reinforcement that encourages the dog to repeat the behaviour to earn the reinforcement again)
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A CUE? HERE ARE SOME TIPS:
- Choose a cue that is easily understandable by your dog and that differs as much as possible from other cues you use.
Dogs don’t speak English. Our verbal cues are not meaningful language to them. Choose cues that give your dog maximum clarity. For example, think about how “down”, and “bow” sound similar and the behaviours are similar too. Differentiating those two verbal cues could be confusing for a dog.
Hand gestures can be similar too. For example, how many of your physical cues use a flat palm? Consider different ways to present your hand including using a fist, two fingers, a thumb’s up, etc. - Try to make your cues stand out from background noise or movements. Make them “pop”. Consider noises instead of verbal cues. For example, how much easier might it be for your dog to perceive your cue for “backing up” if the cue is “BeepBeep” instead of “Back up”?
- Think outside the box when choosing cues. Remember that dogs are sensitive to our movements and that they are much shorter than we are. We typically use our hands to give our dogs cues but why not use our feet, which are closer to the dog’s line of vision? Or try using a tactile cue, such as a touch on the dog’s shoulder, to cue her to spin?
- Understand that dogs read our body language better than they understand our words. Know that if you are presenting your dog with a verbal cue at the same time as a physical cue, your dog is paying attention to the physical cue and it might be one you are not even aware of. Here's an example: if you say "sit" (verbal cue), at the same time that you reach for the treat (physical cue - even if it is unintentional), your dog will be paying attention to the movement of your hand reaching for the treat, and not the verbal cue you are saying.
- Use cues with intent. If cues happen often with no consequence to the dog, the cue will lose its power. To keep your cues clean, here are some don’ts:
- Don’t use your cues casually. Instead use them with intent when you are requesting a behaviour from your dog.
- Don’t repeat or chant cues. Say the cue once and only once.
- Make each cue consistent. Don’t use synonyms. To your dog, “Come” is not the same as “Come here”, or “Come now.” Say your cues the same way every time.
- Don’t use the cue as part of the praise you give your dog for doing the behaviour. For example, don’t say “good sit” when the dog sits on cue. For clarity you only want to say the cue when you are requesting the behaviour. Instead, get in the habit of saying things like “good job”, “well done”, “great work”, etc.
- Don't use complicated cues. Simple is best.
WHEN TO ADD THE CUE
In modern dog training, we don’t add the cue until the dog is already doing the behaviour. Watch the cue being added here as Buddy and I work on the backing up behaviour.
In the first part of the video I have not yet added the verbal cue. We worked on this for about 5 minutes a day for a couple of weeks to get to the point where Buddy was reliably backing up to the target. When the behaviour was reliable - Buddy was hitting the pillow target with his back feet all or most of the time - I added a verbal cue which I say just before he backs up. Because he is already backing up, I can name it. It's as if I was saying to Buddy: Hey, Buddy, you know when you move backwards? We call that "Get Back!".
WHEN TO SAY THE CUE
It is important to give the cue when your dog is ready to receive it. You don't want to cue your dog when she is doing something else, for example, looking away, eating, or otherwise distracted or engaged. If you cue your dog when she isn't ready, you are not setting her up for success. Instead, you are making it likely that she does not respond to your cue. The more she doesn't respond, the more you are weakening your cue and your training overall. Wait until your dog is ready to receive your cue and you will get better, faster, and happier responses!
ENVIRONMENTAL OR CONTEXTUAL CUES
There is another kind of cue that doesn't happen only in a training context. These cues happen all the time, in everyday life: environmental or contextual cues. In fact, dogs respond to these kinds of cues all the time. When I get out my hiking boots, all my dogs perk up and start getting excited and spinning around because that is a cue we are going for a hike. If my dogs are in the kitchen and they see me reach up high to the top cupboard where I keep their food, you guessed it, they read that as a cue I'm about to feed them!
We can make environmental or contextual cues work for us too and train lots of behaviours using them. For example, meeting a person becomes a cue to sit politely. Picking up the leash becomes a cue to wait calmly for it to be clipped on. Holding their dinner bowl is a cue to sit and wait until released to eat. And being out on a walk becomes a cue to walk next to you and check in with you regularly.
Real life rewards are built right into these situations. The dog sits politely to meet a new person and the reward is that the dog gets to greet the person. The dog waits calmly for the leash to be clipped on, and the reward is that the dog gets to go for a walk. The dog waits patiently for his dinner, and the reward is the dog gets to eat. The dog walks next or close to you, and checks in with you, and the reward is that the dog gets to have fun on a walk with you.
It's important to make environmental cues work for our and our dogs' benefit. The sound of a doorbell can be a cue for your dog to start barking and running frantically to the door, or you can teach him that the sound of a doorbell is a cue to do something else, such as go to his bed and receive a treat!
FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Think about the cues you use for your dog. Measure them against the tips presented here. Could you improve some of the cues you use to make yourself clearer to your dog?
